No runway, no fuss: Hermes unveils 2022 menswear with live performance art
The coronavirus pandemic has thrown the world of extravagant fashion runways into an existential crisis. With international travel nonetheless on concord, crowds controlled and contiguous interaction reduced, big-scale fashion shows have become incommunicable to host. How, then, can fashion houses present their latest collections?
Instead of cancelling Paris Style Week, testify organisers instead decided to accept the experience digital, giving designers a new creative claiming. Manner shows are traditionally a grand spectacle, from the set and the soundtrack to, at times, even live performances. Can a fully digital experience completely live up to the feel?
On July 5, Hermes kicked off Paris Fashion Week by showcasing its Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection through a alive online moving-picture show that was a joy to watch – to us anyway. Titled Hors Champs, or Backside the Scenes, the film was a pretend photoshoot for the lookbook of the collection. Models, photographers, stylists and even Veronique Nichanian, Hermes'south longtime menswear designer, were on fix.
The picture was a collaboration with visual artist and theatre manager Cyril Teste. Information technology kicked off with a model travelling down a glass elevator, before the camera wound through a backstage setting capturing the team at work. Nichanian adapted the layers on a model; he walked, turned and posed. Satisfied, Nichanian moved on, every bit the photographic camera then followed the other models around, from getting ready and interacting with one another, to posing for lookbook photos.
The entire film was meant to be casual. Models stopped to chat with one some other, and fifty-fifty took selfies. One model was told he had two minutes. He asked if he could be excused, presumably to take a call – or answer nature's call. A piano soundtrack accompanied the film, interrupted merely in one case by rock music that permeated through a model'south headphones.
"Though the current situation forbids a live audience, spectators will be able to see backstage, and thus share in those moments of creative truth. Circumstances have forced me to pare downwards, both in conception of the drove and in selection for this presentation," Nichanian said in an interview appended to the show notes.
"For me, these constraints are an opportunity and incentive to be inventive, to enquiry, to recreate. It is quite rewarding to hone in on the essential, and to distill, refine, sharpen. Information technology all pointed in one direction, the 1 I wanted to follow for this drove: Simplicity, nonchalance, lightness."
"For me, these constraints are an opportunity and incentive to exist inventive, to research, to recreate. Information technology is quite rewarding to hone in on the essential, and to distill, refine, acuminate." – Veronique Nichanian
The fact that all this happened in real-fourth dimension made the film all that more intriguing. "I usually say that what I do is non theatre; it'south real-time picture show. Here too, the claiming – and what I notice beautiful – is doing it in real time. We are going to accentuate the instant, that vertiginous moment earlier the starting time of a evidence, those few seconds backstage: The Opening Night effect, when you're about to face the music," Teste said.
Nichanian is known for her understated aesthetic, and this drove is no dissimilar. The line-up consisted of light, blusterous pieces, ideal for Singapore's tropical climate. Jackets and blousons borrowed the characteristic stripes and suppleness of the shirt. The shirt adopted the volume of a blouson. Each expect evoked timeless casualness – in tune to where manner is headed, post-pandemic.
The colour palette was tightly controlled, consisting of mostly blues, greys, white and fair, salve for the occasional pops of light-green and fluorescent yellow.
Notably, only 18 looks were presented. "This collection is smaller than usual considering nosotros were cut off from our usual means of production. I too selected eighteen silhouettes where I normally select around forty, partly due to the nature of the operation," Nichanian said.
The film also put focus on accessories. A stylist picked upwardly the Slim d'Hermes watch and handed it to a model, who slipped it on. At ane point, Nichanian asked for a zoom-in on the Haut a Courroies Cargo bag.
Only like the traditional fashion show, the film concluded to rousing applause past the team. Were they acting as part of the endmost of the faux photoshoot, or was that a commemoration of the success of the motion-picture show?
Though the moving-picture show may be a step out of the ordinary, Nichanian took the challenge in her footstep. "Recent events and their damaging effects on the fashion world accept non gotten me downward. Quite the opposite in fact; I feel like the current state of affairs is i from which we can all extract new wisdom, and a new momentum," she said.
Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/obsessions/hermes-menswear-spring-summer-2021-237446
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